Overview | Benefits | Uses | Results to Expect | Risks or Side-effects
A lot of my patients often ask me questions about ingredients that they come across in beauty products. One such ingredient is azelaic acid. Azelaic acid is a natural acid. It is commonly found in barley and wheat. It is noted for its anti-inflammatory nature. The National Center for Biotechnology Information notes azelaic acid as suitable for topical application, as it is well tolerated by human skin.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
Any product that has azelaic acid is very beneficial for your skin. Some of the main benefits are:
- Keeps melanin in control
- Fights acne and acne scars
- Brightens the skin
- Removes skin cells that are dead
Additionally, a study by the Journal of Advanced Pharmaceutical Technology and Research has proved that azelaic acid has antibacterial properties as well.
What are the uses of azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid can help treat the following skin conditions:
- Acne and acne scars – Azelaic acid can clean pores and reduce inflammation. It can also help improve the turnover of cells so that acne scars heal over time. Azelaic acid also stops melanin synthesis, which can causes irregularities in your skin tone. In fact, a product with azelaic acid is known to minimize the potential severity of acne-related scarring.
- Hyperpigmentation – Azelaic acid can prevent the excessive formation of discolored cells in the skin, thereby minimizing hyperpigmentation in acne.
- Rosacea – Azelaic acid can help reduce inflammation caused by rosacea. This minimizes swelling on the skin. In fact, a study conducted by the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology has noted the efficacy of azelaic acid gels on treating rosacea.
- Skin lightening – Melanin can discolor your skin. Azelaic acid can work towards lightening these patches of discoloration.
How does azelaic acid work to help reduce acne?
Azelaic acid can unclog pores to stop new breakouts. It can also reduce the inflammation and thereby, minimize the redness from acne. Azelaic acid can also improve the production of cells and minimize acne scars.
How is azelaic acid different from AHA and BHA?
One good thing about azelaic acid is that it is not an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA). These are derived from other plant sources. Azelaic acid is naturally occurring on the human skin and therefore, is more suited to treating it. Azelaic acid is also better suited to treating uneven skin tone issues as compared to AHA or BHA.
How does azelaic acid compare to benzoyl peroxide in acne treatment?
While azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide both can help treat acne, the former has additional benefits. According to a research from the American Academy of Dermatology, azelaic acid is safe for use in pregnancy. This cannot be said of benzoyl peroxide. Azelaic acid is also less irritating and less drying. So, it can be tolerated even by sensitive skin.
How does azelaic acid compare to adapalene in acne treatment?
Both azelaic acid and adapalene are successfully known to treat acne. A major difference between the two is that azelaic acid does not cause as much dryness and scaling as adapalene.
What are azelaic acid peels for acne?
The Azelaic acid molecule is a newer molecule used in chemical peels. The peel is safe and has no adverse effects. Azelaic acid does not only reduce acne lesions and acne marks, but also helps to normalize the sebaceous gland activity; hence, it ensures long-lasting results. The peels are combined with another molecule like Mandelic acid. At The Bombay Skin Clinic, I always prep the skin for a few days before the peel treatment. The skin is cleansed with a non-alcoholic cleanser and then gel-based peels are applied to the face. We leave them as an overnight peel and seal the peel with a post-peel cream to treat active acne, acne marks, and pigmentation. We use this peel on the face, neck, back, and shoulders.
How can use an azelaic acid product for treating acne?
Azelaic acid comes in the form of a foam or gel. You need to first clean the area that has to be treated. After this, apply a small quantity of the azelaic acid product on the affected area. Rub it in and let it dry. You can now apply make-up normally. I always remind my patients to do a patch test when using a new product, as they may have an allergy.
What results can you expect after the treatment?
Azelaic acid works slowly and needs to be given time to show its complete results. Keeping this in mind, also remember that treatments can vary between patients. So, it is best to talk to your dermatologist to known what you can expect.
How often can you use azelaic acid?
It is safe to use azelaic acid twice a day. However, do remember that it can dry out your skin a bit. To prevent this from happening, follow-up the azelaic acid with a moisturizer on the treated areas. Also, remember to use sunscreen.
What are the pros and cons of using the product?
Azelaic acid is a natural and safe product. However, it is important to note its pros and cons. Some of the pros are:
- Minimizes post-acne marks
- Treats discoloration
- Has antibacterial properties
- Suited for pregnant women
Some of the cons are:
- May cause slight stinging for first-time users
- May lead to skin dryness
Are there any potential risks/side-effects that you should be aware of?
Though azelaic acid is safe-to-use, it has some side-effects. These can include burning, tingling, peeling, and dryness of the skin. In rare cases, some patients may experience flaking of skin and even slight swelling.
Why consult a dermatologist before using azelaic acid?
Consulting a dermatologist is always advised in the case of skin conditions such as acne and eczema. The dermatologist can advise you best on how to use azelaic acid in a way that will really help your skin. They can also recommend the best products.
Closing thoughts
Azelaic acid is a natural acid. This makes it a safe product to use. It is mild and effective in skin treatment. I advise you to consult with your dermatologist and find the best form of this acid – gel, peel, or foam – that will suit your skin for the best healing effects.
References
- National Center for Biotechnology Information – https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1712709
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology – https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(03)00405-5/pdf
- Journal of Advanced Pharmaceutical Technology and Research – http://www.japtr.org/article.asp?issn=2231-4040;year=2019;volume=10;issue=2;spage=75;epage=80;aulast=Apriani
- American Academy of Dermatology – https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/derm-treat/pregnancy
Dr. Batul Patel is a celebrity dermatologist and the medical director of The Bombay Skin Clinic an award winning clinic located in South Mumbai & Bandra. She is a passionate and dedicated dermatologist with expertise in all fields of dermatology, trichology and aesthetic dermatology. She has been practicing for more than a decade. Her range of expertise include emsculpt NEO, coolsculpting, fillers, acne treatment, lasers, skin rejuvenation, hair loss, hair transplant, PRP & pigmentation treatments.